Venice in Quarantine

corona virus

The Corona virus

We are facing hard times. The globe is shrinking and another threat to the world’s population has emerged: The so-called COVID-2019, the corona virus. Some months ago we didn’t even know what it was. Then we heard about a city in China, Wuhan, where an outbreak of an unknown disease had caused deaths in pneumonia. Then we heard about the Chinese authorities shutting down the whole city and blocking all in- and out- traffic, isolating it from all contact with the outside world.

corona virusThen we had a few isolated cases outside of China, in Thailand, Japan, South Korea. Then suddenly we had two cases in Italy, in Lombardia. It was a Chinese couple and they obviously had caught the virus in China before coming to Italy.

It’s closing in…

Suddenly the Corona virus was hot news. A few days and the cases became five, ten, and suddenly there were infected in Mira. And Mira is just 15 kilometers away. The day after, we had two cases in Venice. And that’s when the President of Veneto, Luca Zaia, announced a decree about how the region was going to cope with the emergency.

Yesterday, Sunday, we were all faced with a new life-threatening issue. Something that had turned our everyday life completely upside down… The schools were closed. The Carnival was suspended. (The last two days, Monday and Tuesday, that normally gathers an enormous amount of Party-hungry tourists, youngsters, and other, more or less, locals, were canceled. Now, many came anyway, but all the events were suspended.)

corona virusAnd now we just sit here, waiting in the shadow of the Corona virus. Our kids are at home (…happily gaming away from morning till evening, without homework, without sports-training and without many other duties worth mentioning…). We are at home too. Both I and my wife work in a field were it’s difficult to do anything if meetings are not allowed. So, we too are home until at least March the 1st.

And now the corona virus has blocked Venice.

Because every kind of gathering is banned. Sports, theater, cinema, conferences, be it political or cultural or other, be it public or private, they’re all banned. So, there’s nothing one can do. We go out a lot but not where there are people… You never know who could be infected. The Venetians all bring a little bottle of hand sanitizer and every time they touch something or someone they put their hand in the pocket, pull up the bottle, and wash their hands. Some carry mouth protection even though they say that those are only if you, yourself are sick and sneezes and coughs.

The streets, the Calle, are… Well, I wouldn’t say deserted, but it’s obvious that something is wrong. The hotels suffer from cancellations, the Gondoliers rather than carrying tourists around Venice, stand in the corners discussing what’s happening. It’s a mess. Italy is one of the countries in the world with the most infected… We’re number three on the list with a terrible 230 infected and 7 dead. And that’s the reason why the whole city of Venice has stopped, parked, ceased, paused…

The question everybody asks is… Will it continue to grow? Will it stop or will it gradually cover all of Italy with thousands of deaths? Because this is just the beginning and we already have four infected here… As well as another four in Mira and 25 in the small village of Vò Euganeo outside Padova.

Putting the corona virus in a context.

corona virusThe situation is very challenging, and although I wouldn’t want to minimize the fear and alarm that many of my friends and colleagues feel for the Corona virus… And I, myself, sense when I think about my family, my children, and their vulnerability, I still have to put all this in some sort of context. The world out there is a dangerous one, and often it’s not until the Tiger stands right in front of us, ready to attack, that we acknowledge his presence.

So, here are some of the other diseases, that kill people all over the world:

Sepsis: 

30.000.000 affected worldwide.    6.000.000 deaths (2018).

Hepatitis C

71-000-000 affected worldwide.   400.000 deaths (2016).

AIDS/HIV

38.000.000 affected worldwide.   770.000 deaths (2018).

Malaria

228.000.000 affected worldwide.   400.000 deaths (2018).

Cholera

1.300.000 infected/year worldwide.   21.000 – 143.000 deaths/year.

The Flu

And then we have the normal seasonal influenza… The flu. This is a disease that hits us every year with more or less severe symptoms. It keeps us at home and it makes us stay in bed for days, not being able to work, nor to do anything else useful.

But it’s also a deadly opponent if your immune system is weakened or you’re old or you have some other secondary disease… Or if you happen to live in the wrong part of the world. It causes between 300.000 and 600.000 deaths every year worldwide.

And there are many, many others…

A majority of these diseases are much more common in third-world countries. Most of these diseases have a much higher death rate in third world countries, just because they often lack even the most basic antibiotics and antiviral medicines. And many of these diseases could be cured and even eliminated if resources were allocated.

————

So… Since we’re all at home from school and work, I’ll book a few days in the mountains… To teach the kids how to ski. That would be an awesome way to seize the day and to make something useful out of this desperate situation…

Dolomiti Superski

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Venice Carnival 2020

Venice

Venice Carnival 2020

The Carnival 2020 and its participants are a colorful parade. And although you can find them all around, it’s Saint Mark’s Square that is the meeting point. On the Square, there is the Best Mask Contest every day around noon, so it’s natural that they all meet there. Then, off course, Piazza San Marco is the center of Venice, and it’s even more so in Carnival-times.

Carnival 2020
3 beautiful and colorful pairs in front of the Basilica

Serious Competitors

To me, one of the best parts of the Carnival is walking around in Saint Mark’s Square and just admire all the beautiful dresses and masks. I don’t think there’s any other Carnival ou there, where people take the dressing up so seriously. Not only do some spend weeks of sowing and coloring, but they also spend hundreds of euros on the outfit… Even thousand of euros.

Carnival 2020
Good looking fellow…
Carnival 2020
… But the best was the tail. A fully perpared Dinner-table

I talked to one today who was dressed in an original outfit from the beginning of 1800. He had rented it from Milan and brought it here, just to participate in the Venice Carnival 2020. In Venice, the Masquerade is for real.

The Beauty of the Carnival 2020

Scary dress on Saint Mark's Square
Arrgh… Help!!!

Many just put on the Mask. The rest is normal clothing. But even so, the fact that jìyou can’t see who it is, makes your perception wobble a little. You feel insecure, and maybe a bit aroused by the anonymousness of it all. That is the essence of the Carnival, the original ingredient… You are incognito. 

The Maskerade is when you can behave just like you want without having to answer for it afterward. For good or for worse, because there’s always a little risk with not knowing who the other person is… That’s why Napoleon banished all festivities that included a hidden face. He didn’t trust his subordinates. And right he did. Venice and the Venetians were not easily conquered and they weren’t all that happy with the French having crushed the republic and made them an oppressed people. 

Let’s remember all the oppressed people out there, and let’s make the Carnival 2020 shine for them.Basilica di Carnevale

the Cat and the Fox

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Traveling in the Winter

traveling in the winter

Traveling in the winter is awesome. At least I have always liked the winter holidays. Not only for skiing, ice-skating, sleigh-riding, and all the other winter activities that most of us love so much. Not only for the whiteness, when everything seems new and clean… And soft. You know that dampened sound that comes from all the snow on the trees and on the ground. It’s magical and it’s calming your stressed limbs and your tense shoulders. It’s a time of rest and meditation.

Not only for all those things but also because winter is low season. Not in the mountains, not in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Courmayeur, and Madonna di Campiglio, where the season, ever shorter year by year is hectic from December to March. But in all the other places the crowds are gone.

Traveling in the Winter – The  Beach

traveling in the winterIf I have a Sunday off and my family is free too, sometimes we go to Cavallino or to Lido. The beach that in summer is so full of people that you have difficulties even getting down to the water from your Beach umbrella, is wonderfully empty. Birds, rabbits, and one or two lonely fishermen rule here now. And the walkers. People, who like us, love to walk along the sands, while the winter wind whips our faces or the cold blueish sun warms us up.

We can even let the dog loose. And he loves it, running from here to there over the wide, open sand. In summer we can’t even bring him but in winter it’s all his.

Traveling in the Winter – Venice

Well, If you’d like to visit Venice, traveling in the winter is perfect. I’ve said it many times before, and I say it again. Considering the massive invasion of tourists from April to November, and that it increases year by year, Winter is becoming ever more attractive as the best time to visit. Winter is cold and wet and windy. But it’s empty, it’s cheap and it’s genuine. You have a chance to see some of what has made Venice such a strange, marvelous, and unique place in the world.

traveling in the winterYou can stop by at the Basilica, drop in on the St Mark’s Belltower and still have time for a Gondola -ride before lunch. All without booking ahead. And you can easily find a table at the most crowded restaurants, and even find a place to sit on the Vaporetto. Venice is at its best in Winter.

Traveling in the Winter – Skiing

Traveling in the winter is of course also all the things I was talking about in the beginning. Winter activities. So, from a Venetian perspective, there one word that sums it up, one keyword that includes all the wonders of an active winter holiday…

Dolomiti Superski

Now I’m going to give you the figures because, from a global point of view, not many people understand what we actually have right here, just one hour and a half from Venice, driving north.

Dolomiti Superski is enormous. It consists of 12 separate resorts. Of these, about half is directly connected and the other half you can reach by ski bus. The whole area is covered by one single ski pass. For some reason, it doesn’t count as a single area and for that, it doesn’t appear in the biggest-ski-resorts-in-the-world context. Look at the figures and tell me if it isn’t absolutely awesome.

On the south side of the Alps, the sun is stronger. Consequently, the season is shorter. And with the warmer aver all temperatures, the Italian ski season is at risk. In some valleys, only the south side is skiable, while the north side is for sunbathers.

traveling in the winter
Bombardino

But still, some years skiing is absolutely top class, maybe the best in the world. I’ve had friends from north of the Alps, who have been going to Austria, Switzerland, and even Sweden and Norway… Visiting our top resorts, Canazei, Alta Badia, Val di Fassa, and of course Cortina d’Ampezzo, many of them declare to not want to go nowhere else again. Dolomiti Superski has conquered them.

And the sun isn’t only a negative factor. There’s almost nothing in this world as pleasant as sitting in the sun at the top bar with a Bombardino, muscle soreness in your legs, looking out over the completely white mountains, stretching towards the horizon, and knowing that tomorrow… Well, tomorrow I’ll be sitting here again…

Carnival in Venice

Carnival 2020

The Carnival in Venice 2020 is here… 

It’s that time of the year again and the Carnival in Venice 2020 is coming to turn our world upside down once more.

Take me directly to the paid events and Partys

It starts Saturday, February 8 and it ends Tuesday, February 25. That’s two and a half weeks of madness, partying and masks and costumes. This is what’s gonna happen:

Saturday 8

The Rio di Cannaregio turns into a real water stage with a show that enchants thousands of spectators every year. A floating structure transfers the theme of the Carnival “The Game, the Love and the Madness” to the water.

AMORIS CAUSA. the reason to love. director Alessandro Martello. Two performances 7 pm and 9 pm. Free of charge. Just show up, but be on time. It will be very crowded.

Sunday 9

Grand Opening of the Carnival in Venice 2020.

carnival in veniceGrand Canal. The feast that inaugurates the Carnival in Venice 2020, dedicated to the citizens and guests of the lagoon city. At 11.00 the water procession of the Rowing Association Voga alla Veneta will start from Punta della Dogana and run along the entire Grand Canal until it reaches the popular Rio di Cannaregio, where it will parade in front of the crowds on the banks.

Upon arrival, food- and wine stands will be opened offering Cicchetti, other Venetian specialties and the traditional Frittole and Galani.

Around 12 o’clock the big rat, the symbol of the Venetian carnival, will explode and send balloons to the sky. This marks the official opening of the Carnival in Venice 2020.

Saturday 15

San Pietro di Castello. The traditional “Festa delle Marie” starts out at San Pietro di Castello at 2.30 pm. These are 12 of the most beautiful girls of Venice, handpicked the previous weeks. They will parade all along via Garibaldi and Riva degli Schiavoni and they will reach the San Marco stage at 4.00 pm.

In past times these were 12 girls set to be married but so poor that their families couldn’t pay for the wedding. So, the city (the state and the nobles) paid for it and even lent them some of the most valuable jewelry for the occasion.

carnival in veniceThe Mask- and Dress competition “La Maschera più Bella” 

Saint Mark’s Square. Every day from Saturday 15, you have the chance to win the prize for the best outfit. Qualifications take place on February the 15th at 11 am. and the 16th at 3.30 pm. From Monday the 17th, twice a day. The final is Sunday 23. 

Official Carnival in Venice 2020 Dinner&Ball.

In the Ca’ Vendramin Calergi palace the official dinner and ball are prepared. Sounds, lights, flavors, and entertainments.

The menu is created by the chefs of Ristorante Wagner and the music played by Dj Oyadi and Gloria Fregonese. 

The prize is 500 euro/person. And it’s every night at 9 pm. Saturday and Sunday the 15th and 16th, from Thursday 20, until Tuesday 25. Book here.

Sunday 16

carnival in veniceIl Volo dell Angelo

Saint Mark’s Square. At noon. On a thin steel wire connected from the top of the Belltower, last year’s winner in the Festa delle Marie – competition, Lind Pani, flyes slowly over the full length of Piazza San Marco. Dressed in a traditional Venetian outfit, she hovers over the crowd like an angel until she reached the stage at the western end of the square.

Tuesday 18

Casa di Carlo Goldoni. 6 pm. The Game, the Love and the Madness, the 12 Marie present Goldoni and the Carnival. A “close” encounter with the 12 Marys of the Carnival in Venice 2020. Through the choreography of Alexandra Foffano, you will get to know the 12 Maries as well as extracts from some of the best of the famous Venetian play-writer.

In Italian

Thursday 20

The Mask- and Dress competition “La Maschera più Bella” 

Saint Mark’s Square. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday there are qualification rounds leading up to the final on Sunday the 23rd.

Friday 21

beautiful italian girlsFish Market Rialto. 3 pm. The Balad of the Masks is a cortege in remembrance of the victory over the Patriarch Ulrico of Aquileia and his twelve rebel lords, 1162 AD.

Program:
3 pm prologue and departure from campo San Giacometto: Campo S. Bartolomeo: Campo S. Luca, Campo S. Angelo, Campo S. Stefano, Campo S. Maurizio, calle XXII Marzo, Piazza san Marco

3,30 pm departure from Campo Santa Margherita: Campo san Barnaba, Campo S. Stefano, Campo San Maurizio, Calle Larga XXII Marzo,

4.30 pm arrival in St Mark’s Square with a final show.

At 5.30 pm. in campo San Giacomo dell’Orio: Tango-evening organized by Associazione Tango Action. Also Saturday 22 at 4.30, Monday 23 at 5, and Tuesday 24 at 5.

Sunday 23

The Flight of the Eagle. St Mark’s Square at Noon. Another girl is flying down from the tower, over the cheering crowds. The “Flight of the eagle” closes the Carnival in Venice 2020. As tradition suggests, it’s a famous sport-star raising its wings to the sky.

The Mask- and Dress competition “La Maschera più Bella” 

On Sunday at 2.30 pm the final takes place on the main stage of St Mark’s Square. For those who passed the qualifications the hour of truth has arrived. The best costume and mask of the Carnival in Venice 2020 will be decided.

Monday 24

The Mask- and Dress competition “La Maschera più Bella” 

St Mark’s Square at 11 am. and 1 pm. The children’s edition of the competition. Sign up online.

Tuesday 25… The last day of the Carnival in Venice 2020.

The Mask- and Dress competition “La Maschera più Bella” 

St Mark’s Square at 11 am. and 1 pm. The children’s edition of the competition. On Tuesday, the Mask has to reflect the Carnival’s theme, The Game, the Love and the Madness” Sign up online.

Carnival in Venice… And the Masquerades

NEW!

‘Il Ballo del Doge’ by Antonia Sautter: the most exclusive event of the Venice Carnival!

per person
starting from
€500.00
NEW!‘Mascheranda’ at Palazzo Pisani Moretta in Venice: Carnival Grand Ball in an exclusive location

per person
starting from
€250.00

Minuetto – Dinner & Masked Balls at Danieli Hotel

per person
€340.00

Tiepolo Ball at Palazzo Pisani Moretta

Side Hall
per person
€550.00

‘Il Don Giovanni’ by Mozart: Carnival Party at Palazzetto Pisani

per person
€350.00

Minuetto at Ridotto Dinner & Masked Balls at Monaco&Grand Canal Hotel

per person
starting from
€300.00

Carnival Extravaganza – Masked Ball at Palazzo Dandolo

per person
€ 550.00

Venice Carnival Party Cruise

Go to sea with Jolly Roger cruises and party on deck…

per person         €100.00

Casanova Grand Ball 2020 at Ca’ ZenoSent of Woman  per person

 €200.00 –
 €750.00

‘The Carnival Elixir’: dinner and Grand Ball at Teatro La Fenice, the opera house in Venice.

per person
starting from
€450.00

Secrets of Venice Carnival and the Life And Times Of Giacomo Casanova

per person
€45.00

‘The Greatest Carnival Show’

at Baglioni Hotel Luna

per person
€340.00

Private Gametour‘The Mask Collector’ in Venice: Visit and Play!

per service
€ 235.00

‘The Ball of Dreams’ at Palazzo Contarini della Porta di Ferro

per person
starting from
€ 150.00

NEW!’The Official Dinner Show & Ball’: Carnival Party at Venice Casino

per person
€500.0

The Pirates Island’: Masquerade party on the Grand Canal at the Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort

per person
€200.00

‘Opera Gala Dinner’: Carnival Party at the Hotel Saturnia in Venice

Italian opera at the Carnival

per person

€290.00

Carnival parties at the Carlton on the Grand Canal Hotel

per person
starting from
€190.00

Rent Carnival Venetian Ball Costumes at Atelier Tiepolo in Venice (at Danieli Hotel)

per person
starting from
€320.00

Carnival In Love Grand Ball at Palazzo Contarini della Porta di Ferro

per person
€ 150.00

‘The Phantom of the Opera’: Party & Dinner at the Hotel Saturnia in Venice

per person
€ 290.00

Game tour ‘The Mask Collector’ in Venice

– Special Carnival Date 20 February 2020: Visit and Play!

per person   €20.00

Exclusive Carnival Ball at Palazzo Labia in Venice: dinner and fun surrounded by Tiepolo’s paintings

per person
starting from
€800.00

Pub Crawl: bacaro guided tour during the Venice Carnival Starting point Cà Rezzonico

per person
€50.00

Carnival Treasure Hunt A Carnival game in the historical center of Venice

per person
€20.00

Dancing Chocolate  Balls & Tastings at Splendid Venice Hotel

per person
€130.00

CotillonSweet Dance classes at Monaco&Grand Canal Hotel

per person
€ 130.00

Great Baglioni Carnival Partyat the Baglioni Hotel Luna

per person
€ 290.00

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Low Tides

low tides

Low tides in Venice

low tidesIt’s really amazing how life changes sometimes. Not more than 2 months ago we had the worst week of high tides ever. Damage worth of hundreds of millions and inestimable costs for restoring lost cultural heritage.

And today when I looked over the handrail of the canal I found this.

Who pulled the plug? Where’s the water gone? It was -45 cm and they say it could be as low as -60 during the week to come. That’s very low. That’s actually 2,32 meters lower than November 12th, 2019.

Not that I’m complaining… We rather have low water than high, no doubt about that. And it’s not the first time it happens. Last year we had some very low waters as well, and it happened in January.

It’s because of the beautiful weather.

The high pressure keeps the water low. And together with northern winds and low temperatures that keep the water in the mountains restrained as ice, the sea stays at sea and doesn’t come into our homes.

And then, of course, there’s the normal tide movement from the moon, and the sun.

Low tides cause problems too. (Jesus… If it’s high they complain and if it’s low they complain. Are these guys never happy?)

First, there’s the smell. At low tide, there’s always a little odor from the rotting algae on the poles and underwater barriers, but when it’s this low and the whole canal is dry it’s worse. Although with these temperatures it’s not all that unbearable.

Second, there are the house-ground problems. The water penetrates the wall when the tide rises. Then when the tide goes down again the water inside the wall comes out. It’s just that when it’s coming out it brings some of the wall with it. Microscopic pieces of stones, bricks, and cement. It’s normal, but the bigger the difference between high and low, the bigger the problem. It doesn’t show right away but after ten, twenty, or a hundred years, it can be very costly.

low tidesThird, the boats can’t come through. Ok, it doesn’t really bother me that the Gondoliers can’t work. Nor do I really care if the taxi can’t reach the private dock at the hotel and some tourist has to walk a few hundred meters.

Low tides and dishwashing

But I bought a new dishwasher the other day (…cause the one I had, went crazy and started dishwashing when it wanted, morning, evening… midnight), and they can’t deliver it. So we have to wash our dishes by hand… Yeah, I hate that.

Fourth, it’s ugly. To me, there’s nothing as sad and wrong as a boat on land. I know that maybe it’s just me, but I feel it’s so incredibly awkward to see a beautiful yacht on dry land, showing its keel and rudder to everybody like a naked person. Exactly the same feeling comes over me when I see the small wooden boats and gondolas at the bottom of the canal, trying to maintain some of their dignity while wallowing in the mud. It’s a very sad image.

So we’ve spent 5,5 billion euro on a huge project to be able to save us from the high waters. We’ve been building on it for 17 years and it still isn’t ready. We’ve put people in jail over it, we’ve changed political outcomes of elections over it and we’ve been looked upon as morons by our fellow Italians because of it…

Wouldn’t it be cool if we could use it and benefit from it somehow in the end? And even if it won’t work as it’s supposed to and we still can’t keep water out, maybe we could keep it in?

low tides

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